Moates Demon1 / Demon2 Installation Instructions for USDM OBD1 ECU's
These installation instructions cover installing a Moates Demon1 or Demon2 into OBD1 US-spec Civic and Integra ECU's (ie: P06, P28, P75, P72, etc) using the Moates Demon socketing kit. The first part of the process is socketing the ECU to accept the Demon, then finish by installing the Demon into the socket.
For these instructions we will use an OBD1 P28 ECU as an example (other ECU's similar). You will need common soldering equipment as well as either a desoldering gun or desoldering braid.
Begin by removing the screws holding the top and bottom ECU lids and remove the lids. Set the screws and lids aside. Orient the ECU on your workbench with the grey ECU plugs to your left as shown:
We will be working in the lower right corner of the ECU where a standard chip would usually be installed:
Honda has done us a favor by outlining in the dashed white line the areas that need to be desoldered. Using either desoldering braid or a desoldering gun, remove the solder from all of the locations shown:
Note that P72 and P75 ECU's will not have a location labeled "R54" as shown above. For these ECU's, simply disregard the steps for R54.
Turn your ECU over so the backside is facing you. Apply a light amount of solder flux to all of the holes. A small flathead screwdriver or toothpick works well for this. Be careful not to damage any of the ECU tracks.
Now is the time to open up the Moates Demon socketing kit and locate the following components:
We have labeled the location where each component will be installed for clarification. You can start installing/soldering the components in any way that you'd like, but for this example we will start with the R54 1.2k ohm resistor. bend the ends of the resistor so that they can be inserted into the ECU board holes at location R54:
Insert the resistor into R54. Again, if you have a P72 or P75 ECU this will not apply and you can simply skip this step. Polarity does not matter on the resistor, it can be installed in any direction.
Turn the ECU over and solder the resistor in place.
Trim the extra 'legs' of the resistor off and set aside. Do not throw these pieces away as they will be needed in the next step.
Bend one of the extra legs that you cut from the 1.2k ohm resistor in a "U" shape so that it can be inserted into the holes at J1. If your Demon socketing kit came with a resistor that is tan with a black stripe, you can use this instead of an extra 'leg' that you cut from the R54 1.2k ohm resistor. Simply bend just as you did the R54 1.2k ohm resistor and insert into the holes at J1.
Insert the resistor leg/wire into J1:
Turn your ECU over and solder into place, then cut any remaining wire sticking out:
Turn your ECU back over to the front side. Your soldering should look something like this. If your solder is not shiny or has not completely filled the holes, try turning up the heat on your soldering iron and/or using more solder flux.
Insert the yellow C51 and C52 capacitors into location C51 and C52. Polarity does not matter:
Turn your ECU over onto the back side and solder the capacitors in place.
Trim off the excess pieces.
Turn your ECU back onto the front side. Here's a close-up of the holes that you should have desoldered at CN2. Note that hole #5 does not need to be desoldered. The 4 pin header will install in holes 1 through 4.
Insert the 4 pin CN2 header into the location labed CN2 with the tab/clip facing away from you as shown:
Turn the ECU over and solder the 4 pin header in place:
Turn your ECU back to the front side. Insert the 74HC373 chip into the spot on the board that Honda has conveniently labeled "74HC373". Be sure to orient the chip with the half-circle notch facing the grey ECU plugs (left). If this is installed backwards the ECU will not function properly.
Turn the ECU over and solder in place. Be sure to heat each solder joint fully so that the solder flows into the holes, but do not overheat as it will damage the ECU board.
Turn your ECU back to the front and insert the 28 pin machined socket into the location labeled "27256". The socket should be installed with the half-circle notch facing the grey ECU plugs just as the 74HC373 chip was in the previous step. If you mistakenly install it backwards, don't worry. The orientation on the 28 pin machined socket is just proper circuitry etiquette, it won't affect operation.
Turn the ECU over and solder in place.
Your ECU socketing should look like this:
Locate the spot on your ECU labeled J12. It will have a resistor in place from the factory:
In order for the datalogging features of the Neptune software to work, you will need to either remove the resistor or atleast cut off one "leg" of the resistor to break the circuit.
With one 'leg' of resistor cut to break circuit:
For a more professional solution, you can completely remove the resistor instead of just cutting it:
Lastly, the Demon socketing kit will come with a replacement main capacitor for C14. This is a completely preventative component that should be replaced while you are working in the ECU. The C14 capacitor is a common failure point on Honda ECU's. By replacing it now, you will avoid the future chance of the capacitor blowing and burning/damaging the ECU board. Location of the C14 main capacitor:
To replace the C14 main capacitor, turn your ECU over and desolder the two holes that contain the 'legs' of the capacitor and gently remove. A little extra solder flux and higher heat will help to remove it. Photo of holes desoldered:
Remove the original capacitor, then apply a thin layer of solder flux to the holes:
Insert the new replacement capacitor into C14. Be sure the white stripe side of the capacitor lines up with the marks on the ECU board. Your capacitor may look slightly different or be a different color. Just be sure the stripe on the capacitor lines up with the mark on the ECU board or your ECU will not power-up when you are done.
Turn the ECU over and solder the legs of the capacitor in place:
Trim off the excess wire from the capacitor:
This completes the ECU socketing steps for installing your Moates Demon1 or Demon2. We will now work on installing the Demon into the socket that you've just installed.
The next steps are for installing the Moates Demon1 into the socketed ECU. If you have a Demon2, skip down to the Demon2 section below.
Locate the white nylon screw and spacer/collar from your Demon kit:
Insert the white nylon screw through the hole shown from the back side of the Demon towards the top side:
Screw the white nylon spacer/collar onto the screw until snug.
Turn over your Demon board and locate the 28 pin female socket with 2 rows:
Insert the two rows of Demon header pins from your socketing kit into the two rows of female sockets on your Demon board as shown:
Align the two rows of pins with the 28 pin machined socket on your ECU board and press together:
Press down firmly until you feel the Demon header pins lock into place.
Locate the 4 pin interconnect cable from your Demon kit. Plug one end into the 4 pin header at CN2 on your ECU board and the other into the header connecter on your Demon:
Your Demon is now installed and ready for use. Reinstall the lower ECU lid and screw into place.
You can plug your mini-USB cable into the connector and begin use. After you are done, reinstall the top ECU lid and screw in place.
The above configuration will require you to remove your top ECU lid anytime you'd like to connect your USB cable and tune or make programming changes. If your Demon kit came with the bulkhead cable connector kit (or if you've purchased a Demon Bulkhead Cable Connector Kit separately), you can see the Demon Bulkhead cable kit installation instructions.
The next steps cover installing the Demon2 into your socketed ECU
The Demon V2 comes with a white nylon screw, washer, and spacer pre-installed:
Unscrew the white nylon spacer/collar and remove the white nylon washer:
Screw the white nylon spacer/collar back onto the white nylon screw and discard the washer.
Turn your Demon2 to the back side and locate the 28 pin machined socket on the back side of your Demon2:
Insert the two rows of Demon header pins from the Demon socket kit into the rows on the 28 pin machined socket.
Align the Demon header pins with the 28 pin machined socket on your ECU board and the 4 pin header on the Demon with the CN2 header on your ECU board:
Press the Demon down into the socket and 4 pin header firmly until you feel it click into place.
The Demon2 does not require a 4 pin interconnect cable as shown for the Demon1 as it is built-in to the board.
Reinstall the bottom ECU lid and screw into place:
Connect your mini-USB cable to the Demon2's mini USB connector. You are now ready for use.
The configuration above will require you to remove the upper ECU lid anytime you'd like to connect your USB cable to make programming changes, etc. If your Demon2 came with a Demon Bulkhead Cable Connector Kit, or if you've purchase it separately, see the Demon Bulkhead cable kit installation instructions.
For these instructions we will use an OBD1 P28 ECU as an example (other ECU's similar). You will need common soldering equipment as well as either a desoldering gun or desoldering braid.
Begin by removing the screws holding the top and bottom ECU lids and remove the lids. Set the screws and lids aside. Orient the ECU on your workbench with the grey ECU plugs to your left as shown:
We will be working in the lower right corner of the ECU where a standard chip would usually be installed:
Honda has done us a favor by outlining in the dashed white line the areas that need to be desoldered. Using either desoldering braid or a desoldering gun, remove the solder from all of the locations shown:
Note that P72 and P75 ECU's will not have a location labeled "R54" as shown above. For these ECU's, simply disregard the steps for R54.
Turn your ECU over so the backside is facing you. Apply a light amount of solder flux to all of the holes. A small flathead screwdriver or toothpick works well for this. Be careful not to damage any of the ECU tracks.
Now is the time to open up the Moates Demon socketing kit and locate the following components:
We have labeled the location where each component will be installed for clarification. You can start installing/soldering the components in any way that you'd like, but for this example we will start with the R54 1.2k ohm resistor. bend the ends of the resistor so that they can be inserted into the ECU board holes at location R54:
Insert the resistor into R54. Again, if you have a P72 or P75 ECU this will not apply and you can simply skip this step. Polarity does not matter on the resistor, it can be installed in any direction.
Turn the ECU over and solder the resistor in place.
Trim the extra 'legs' of the resistor off and set aside. Do not throw these pieces away as they will be needed in the next step.
Bend one of the extra legs that you cut from the 1.2k ohm resistor in a "U" shape so that it can be inserted into the holes at J1. If your Demon socketing kit came with a resistor that is tan with a black stripe, you can use this instead of an extra 'leg' that you cut from the R54 1.2k ohm resistor. Simply bend just as you did the R54 1.2k ohm resistor and insert into the holes at J1.
Insert the resistor leg/wire into J1:
Turn your ECU over and solder into place, then cut any remaining wire sticking out:
Turn your ECU back over to the front side. Your soldering should look something like this. If your solder is not shiny or has not completely filled the holes, try turning up the heat on your soldering iron and/or using more solder flux.
Insert the yellow C51 and C52 capacitors into location C51 and C52. Polarity does not matter:
Turn your ECU over onto the back side and solder the capacitors in place.
Trim off the excess pieces.
Turn your ECU back onto the front side. Here's a close-up of the holes that you should have desoldered at CN2. Note that hole #5 does not need to be desoldered. The 4 pin header will install in holes 1 through 4.
Insert the 4 pin CN2 header into the location labed CN2 with the tab/clip facing away from you as shown:
Turn the ECU over and solder the 4 pin header in place:
Turn your ECU back to the front side. Insert the 74HC373 chip into the spot on the board that Honda has conveniently labeled "74HC373". Be sure to orient the chip with the half-circle notch facing the grey ECU plugs (left). If this is installed backwards the ECU will not function properly.
Turn the ECU over and solder in place. Be sure to heat each solder joint fully so that the solder flows into the holes, but do not overheat as it will damage the ECU board.
Turn your ECU back to the front and insert the 28 pin machined socket into the location labeled "27256". The socket should be installed with the half-circle notch facing the grey ECU plugs just as the 74HC373 chip was in the previous step. If you mistakenly install it backwards, don't worry. The orientation on the 28 pin machined socket is just proper circuitry etiquette, it won't affect operation.
Turn the ECU over and solder in place.
Your ECU socketing should look like this:
Locate the spot on your ECU labeled J12. It will have a resistor in place from the factory:
In order for the datalogging features of the Neptune software to work, you will need to either remove the resistor or atleast cut off one "leg" of the resistor to break the circuit.
With one 'leg' of resistor cut to break circuit:
For a more professional solution, you can completely remove the resistor instead of just cutting it:
Lastly, the Demon socketing kit will come with a replacement main capacitor for C14. This is a completely preventative component that should be replaced while you are working in the ECU. The C14 capacitor is a common failure point on Honda ECU's. By replacing it now, you will avoid the future chance of the capacitor blowing and burning/damaging the ECU board. Location of the C14 main capacitor:
To replace the C14 main capacitor, turn your ECU over and desolder the two holes that contain the 'legs' of the capacitor and gently remove. A little extra solder flux and higher heat will help to remove it. Photo of holes desoldered:
Remove the original capacitor, then apply a thin layer of solder flux to the holes:
Insert the new replacement capacitor into C14. Be sure the white stripe side of the capacitor lines up with the marks on the ECU board. Your capacitor may look slightly different or be a different color. Just be sure the stripe on the capacitor lines up with the mark on the ECU board or your ECU will not power-up when you are done.
Turn the ECU over and solder the legs of the capacitor in place:
Trim off the excess wire from the capacitor:
This completes the ECU socketing steps for installing your Moates Demon1 or Demon2. We will now work on installing the Demon into the socket that you've just installed.
The next steps are for installing the Moates Demon1 into the socketed ECU. If you have a Demon2, skip down to the Demon2 section below.
Locate the white nylon screw and spacer/collar from your Demon kit:
Insert the white nylon screw through the hole shown from the back side of the Demon towards the top side:
Screw the white nylon spacer/collar onto the screw until snug.
Turn over your Demon board and locate the 28 pin female socket with 2 rows:
Insert the two rows of Demon header pins from your socketing kit into the two rows of female sockets on your Demon board as shown:
Align the two rows of pins with the 28 pin machined socket on your ECU board and press together:
Press down firmly until you feel the Demon header pins lock into place.
Locate the 4 pin interconnect cable from your Demon kit. Plug one end into the 4 pin header at CN2 on your ECU board and the other into the header connecter on your Demon:
Your Demon is now installed and ready for use. Reinstall the lower ECU lid and screw into place.
You can plug your mini-USB cable into the connector and begin use. After you are done, reinstall the top ECU lid and screw in place.
The above configuration will require you to remove your top ECU lid anytime you'd like to connect your USB cable and tune or make programming changes. If your Demon kit came with the bulkhead cable connector kit (or if you've purchased a Demon Bulkhead Cable Connector Kit separately), you can see the Demon Bulkhead cable kit installation instructions.
The next steps cover installing the Demon2 into your socketed ECU
The Demon V2 comes with a white nylon screw, washer, and spacer pre-installed:
Unscrew the white nylon spacer/collar and remove the white nylon washer:
Screw the white nylon spacer/collar back onto the white nylon screw and discard the washer.
Turn your Demon2 to the back side and locate the 28 pin machined socket on the back side of your Demon2:
Insert the two rows of Demon header pins from the Demon socket kit into the rows on the 28 pin machined socket.
Align the Demon header pins with the 28 pin machined socket on your ECU board and the 4 pin header on the Demon with the CN2 header on your ECU board:
Press the Demon down into the socket and 4 pin header firmly until you feel it click into place.
The Demon2 does not require a 4 pin interconnect cable as shown for the Demon1 as it is built-in to the board.
Reinstall the bottom ECU lid and screw into place:
Connect your mini-USB cable to the Demon2's mini USB connector. You are now ready for use.
The configuration above will require you to remove the upper ECU lid anytime you'd like to connect your USB cable to make programming changes, etc. If your Demon2 came with a Demon Bulkhead Cable Connector Kit, or if you've purchase it separately, see the Demon Bulkhead cable kit installation instructions.