USDM OBD1 Civic / Integra ECU Socketing Instructions
OBD1 Honda Civic and Acura Integra ECU's are in the same 'ecu family' and therefore can be easily socketed the same way for use with a common 28 pin ROM or 'chip'. This step-by-step ECU socketing guide has been provided to assist you with your ECU socketing using a USDM ECU Chip Kit like offered here at HA Motorsports. These instructions only apply to OBD1 USDM Civic / Integra ECU's.
Unscrew the top cover of your ECU. To keep yourself oriented, position your ECU on a workbench in the direction shown below:
Next, flip your ECU upside down and unscrew the bottom cover so it looks like this:
Honda has done us a great favor when it comes time to socket and chip our Honda ECU. They have provided an outlined area showing where all of the new socketing components need to be soldered :) This is evident in the image shown below:
Here is the same image showing in more detail the outlined area along with the key component locations and their identification:
Now the fun begins. Turn your ECU upside down and using either a desoldering gun or desoldering braid, desolder all of the component locations shown in the previous picture. TIP: Applying a thin layer of flux may help the factory solder to 'melt' and allow it to be easily sucked out of the solder joints cleanly and without damaging the board or lifting tracks.
After all joints are de-soldered, you can turn your ECU back over. It should look similar to the image below. If you are not going to be datalogging you do not need to desolder the location labeled 'CN2' as this is only used for a datalog header.
Next, take your two .1uf capacitors (shown below) from your ECU chip kit and place into the open joints labeled C51 and C52.
Take your 74HC373 chip (shown below), and drop into place at the area labeled '74HC373' (simple enough). BE SURE THE HALF MOON NOTCH IS FACING TOWARDS THE ECU PLUGS.
Install your 28 pin DIP socket or ZIF socket if supplied into the area labeled '27C256'. AGAIN, BE SURE THE HALF MOON SHAPED NOTCH FACES THE ECU PLUGS.
Insert your 1.2k resistor into the area labeled 'R54'(only needed on 11F0 and 1720 board types. R54 is not present on "1980" boards and therefore not needed).
Insert your O ohm resistor/ jumper wire into J1. This jumper wire can easily be cut to restore your ECU back to completely stock operation if needed.
Turn your ECU board over and solder all joints carefully. As seen in the below image, some components may have extra wire length left protruding from the back side of the ECU board. Simply trim the excess off and discard or keep for later use as a jumper wire. This excess wire left from your resistors is great for use in J1.
Turn your ECU board back over. Your ECU should now look similar to this:
Re-install lower ECU cover and screw into place. Now is time to program your new chip and install into the ECU. We will cover how to setup a basemap chip in our next tutorial. Cheers!
Unscrew the top cover of your ECU. To keep yourself oriented, position your ECU on a workbench in the direction shown below:
Next, flip your ECU upside down and unscrew the bottom cover so it looks like this:
Honda has done us a great favor when it comes time to socket and chip our Honda ECU. They have provided an outlined area showing where all of the new socketing components need to be soldered :) This is evident in the image shown below:
Here is the same image showing in more detail the outlined area along with the key component locations and their identification:
Now the fun begins. Turn your ECU upside down and using either a desoldering gun or desoldering braid, desolder all of the component locations shown in the previous picture. TIP: Applying a thin layer of flux may help the factory solder to 'melt' and allow it to be easily sucked out of the solder joints cleanly and without damaging the board or lifting tracks.
After all joints are de-soldered, you can turn your ECU back over. It should look similar to the image below. If you are not going to be datalogging you do not need to desolder the location labeled 'CN2' as this is only used for a datalog header.
Next, take your two .1uf capacitors (shown below) from your ECU chip kit and place into the open joints labeled C51 and C52.
Take your 74HC373 chip (shown below), and drop into place at the area labeled '74HC373' (simple enough). BE SURE THE HALF MOON NOTCH IS FACING TOWARDS THE ECU PLUGS.
Install your 28 pin DIP socket or ZIF socket if supplied into the area labeled '27C256'. AGAIN, BE SURE THE HALF MOON SHAPED NOTCH FACES THE ECU PLUGS.
Insert your 1.2k resistor into the area labeled 'R54'(only needed on 11F0 and 1720 board types. R54 is not present on "1980" boards and therefore not needed).
Insert your O ohm resistor/ jumper wire into J1. This jumper wire can easily be cut to restore your ECU back to completely stock operation if needed.
Turn your ECU board over and solder all joints carefully. As seen in the below image, some components may have extra wire length left protruding from the back side of the ECU board. Simply trim the excess off and discard or keep for later use as a jumper wire. This excess wire left from your resistors is great for use in J1.
Turn your ECU board back over. Your ECU should now look similar to this:
Re-install lower ECU cover and screw into place. Now is time to program your new chip and install into the ECU. We will cover how to setup a basemap chip in our next tutorial. Cheers!